Eskdale – Places to Visit
Samye Ling Tibetan Buddhist Centre
Founded in 1967, the Centre is located in a peaceful valley on the banks of the river Esk, not far from Langholm. Kagyu Samye Ling was the first Tibetan Buddhist Centre to be established in the West, and its grounds plus large temple are open for day visitors all year round, with entry free of charge. Café and shop. Overnight stays are available in single rooms, twin rooms, or dormitories (booking in advance recommended). Samye Ling also offers courses and retreats. (image credit: Samye Ling).
Eskdale Prehistoric Trail
In the area around Eskdalemuir, once part of the territories of the powerful Selgovae tribe, follow the Prehistoric Trail through this rugged and remote upland landscape in visiting Iron Age hillforts and other ancient sites. Notable forts accessible by pathways, mostly complimented by information boards, are Castle O’er (pictured), the pair at Bessie’s Hill, Bailiehill, and the smaller ‘Knowe’. Explore the area by bike or car (public transport is limited) stopping at lay-bys at the individual locations. The trek up to and around each fort makes for a pleasant, in cases invigorating, walk in itself. Pre-dating the hillforts, are the ancient stone rings of ‘The Loupin’ Stanes’ and ‘The Girdle Stanes’, with other sites including the funerary one of ‘King Schaw’s Grave’ and the curious ‘amphitheatre’ of Over Rig. (image of Castle O’er: credit Alan Murray ‘An Aerial Observation’).
Visit Langholm
The historic burgh of Langholm nestles among rolling hills in the valley of the River Esk not far from the border with England. While located at the eastern end of Dumfriesshire, in a sense it has more the ‘feel’ of the Scottish Borders region – in whose history it played a central part – than of Dumfries and Galloway. The surrounding area has much to offer the visitor by way of scenic walks, heritage sites, and of course the Samye Ling Tibetan Buddhist Monastery as featured above. Not far away is the huge sombre shell of Hermitage Castle, while a trip into the vicinity around Eskdalemuir will lead you to a number of ancient hillforts and related places which can be combined in the Prehistoric Trail. Every summer Langholm holds its celebrated Common Riding event. (image credit: Welcome to Langholm).
Gilnockie Tower and Clan Armstrong Centre
The reputation of this tower, just on the Scottish side of the border in a once lawless area known as the ‘Debatable Lands, owes much to a fame that surpasses its modest size. Notably so as having been the home of the celebrated (if for many people during his era, ‘notorious’) sixteenth-century Border Reiver, Johnnie Armstrong – eventually executed by King James V of Scotland following a treacherous ploy. Gilnockie, the world centre of ‘Clan Armstrong’ (even Neil Armstrong, the first man on the moon, paid a visit) houses exhibits on the Reivers and wider Armstrong history. Open April to October, admission charge. (image credit: Gilnockie Tower).
Hermitage Castle (Borders region)
Situated in neighbouring Liddesdale, in the Scottish Borders region but not far from Langholm, this huge shell of a medieval fortress can seem a grim and forbidding place. For most of its 400-year history, the castle was a key stronghold in controlling the Scottish Middle March – the scene of much Anglo-Scottish warfare and habitual ‘Border Reiving’. In his book, The Steel Bonnets, George Macdonald Fraser describes Hermitage as “the guardhouse of the bloodiest valley in Britain”. It was also the scene of a dramatic episode in the life of Mary Queen of Scots. A few miles away at Old Castleton, are the earthworks of a predecessor castle alongside the historic parish graveyard. Open April to September (admission charge).
